Sunday, April 22, 2012

White Dinner Jacket and Tuxedo Etiquette Tips

Going to a Black Tie party this summer in Tuxedo Park, New York? Going to an evening wedding in Newport or Long Island? Maybe just a simple, lovely dinner with your spouse on a special date night. The following are a few practical tips and a few fun tips you may enjoy:))

"Of course, if you want to be very smart, you must not say anything but "dinner coat" --which is quite all right if those you say it to, know what you mean! At all events, the tuxedo is merely the English dinner coat, which was first introduced in this country at the Tuxedo Club to provide something less formal than the swallowtail, and the nickname has clung ever since."

Tuxedo or White Dinner Jacket (Memorial Day through Labor Day only), should be worn to a Formal Black Tie wedding or party from 6:00 p.m. on, although, I have read that Tux may be worn during daylight hours if, and only if, the daylight goes on into an evening wedding reception or party. So, wearing Tux to a 5:00 p.m. or a 5:30 p.m. wedding or party can be done. Best also, as a precaution, to call and ask what the Father of the Bride, Groom and Groomsmen are wearing.
   
**  My husband and I once attended a Virginia wedding in which a formal thermographed, yet as most would consider now to be old fashioned, wedding invitation was sent without a "Reply Card", so the R.s.v.p. had to be hand written. This traditional summer wedding was at 5:00 p.m. at a small church in the country, and the outdoor reception followed at the country home. The Father of the Bride was in White Tie, the Groom and Groomsmen wore Black Tie. 95% of the male wedding guests wore Black Tie. One person showed up in a White Dinner Jacket (more of an eggshell with a shawl collar - very 'Great Gatsby'). The Bridesmaids were in long dresses, and 90% of all the women showed up in thin, silk, short, knee length, day dresses as opposed to Cocktail Suits, or dressy Tea Length dress of which there were few, as the reception was outside and still 90 degrees at night. My husband was properly dressed in a handsome navy summer wool suit with a silk tie, yet felt like a duck out of water, because only about 5% of the other men had on a suit. It was the strangest wedding I have ever been to as far as fashion. Usually, the women are the ones who overdress. Again, best to check out what the wedding party is wearing.

"The shawl collar is supposed to be less formal than lapels."

"The reason for the turned up cuff is to keep clear of mud." 

"A butterfly bow shape is correct in plain black silk or satin. Fancy evening ties are bad form."

"The most practical hat for town wear in winter, both for full-dress and dinner coat, is an opera hat which collapses, instead of the regular high silk one."

"In summer a straw or gray soft hat is proper, whether in town or country."

The tips in italics are from the 1937 book: "Etiquette" by Emily Post, pages 726 and 727.
**Cautionary tale of woe from the author.

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Who Are You Hungry For As Your Saviour: God or The Government?

   As a teenager, how many times did you hear the expression: "As long as you live under our roof, you must abide by our rules." As an adult, you may say to yourself: "Life is what we make it." In the Science Fiction book and movie: "The Hunger Games," we hear the citizens in this post-apocalyptic society repeating in unison, Gandhi's quote: "You be the change you want to see in the world."
   My 12 year old grand-daughter's favorite part of the book was the heroine's ability to live and survive in the woods, hunting her own food with bow and arrow and knowing which berries, nuts, mushrooms and leaves to eat and which were poisonous. In our book club, we discussed why 30 million copies of this youth book were sold and decided teens liked this story for its protagonist, Katniss Everdeen. We follow alongside Katniss in this topical thriller, witness to her transformation from a strong, self-sufficient teenager just wanting to survive the 'Games', to a virtuous, giving woman, willing to sacrifice her own life for the life of another.
   The story unveils the vices of the government worshiping, game playing, game makers: the citizens of District I. The Capitol, called Panem, after the Latin for 'bread' is supposed to be equal to the other 11 Districts, but clearly it is not. In any equal society, someone has to run it, right? Panem's circus-like citizens look like Lilly Pulitzer gone wild in South Beach. These corrupt citizens unknowingly live out the Hellish Seven Deadly Sins in an Orwellian style, Godless, grand scale Reality TV world. The citizens are rich, and sumptuous buffets of food are always present, yet wasted. These privileged government workers are thin because they are so vein, unlike in the other 11 Districts where food is scarce. Government rations are available, but for a price...your life. Every time you take a government ration of food to feed your family and oil to heat your house, your name is entered into the lottery for another chance to be forced into participation as a "Tribute" for "The Hunger Games." Meanwhile, the pampered citizens of Panem are are overdone on plastic surgery, narcissistic, gluttonous in their appetite for greed, wrathful, envious, and brutally shallow craving constant entertainment.
   The President of the 12 Districts, is dignified, charismatic, and TV ready, yet underneath the surface, is a hypocrite, cruel and divisive. Divide and conquer. He says he shows his citizens a little bit of hope by requiring the 'Games" be viewed by every citizen, but thinks too much hope is dangerous. He sounds like Lenin who referred to his citizens as: "Useful idiots." Too much hope may lead to another uprising against the government and undermine their total control. Those in the Capitol, need the plentiful natural resources of the other 11 dirt poor districts to live their luxurious lives, so control is crucial to their survival.    
   This adventure story shows the physiological 'fight or flight' stress reaction. It delves deep into the woods where wild animals are hunted, whether they be man or beast. It explores hatred for those one does not know, hatred for those in the know, and hatred for the government.
   On a different level, this tale tells a tender story of sacrifice, unrequited love, a love of family and friends, and an acceptance of self.
    In our book club discussion, the subject of why suicide never occurred to any one teen as they struggled for survival during the 'Games' was raised. The conclusion was that there was not enough hope and no faith in any type of afterlife within this secular society. The greatest sin was any sin against the all mighty government. A government that cradled you and initially meant to take care of you from birth to death. Ironically, 74 years later, it controlled uncontrollable things like the weather, the sunrise, and the stars.  
   The Capitol district, called Panem, or the Latin for "bread," sacrifice one boy and girl called "Careers" each year for the games. One of these "Careers" usually win as they each train their entire lives for what they call "their honor" to compete. Like a corporate culture, they all drink the Capitol Kool-aid and eat their cake. These sinful citizens of the capital with their fancy fashion and expensive plastic surgery, look like they should be contestants in their own Reality TV show.
   Ironically, it will be one virtuous boy and girl from the other 11 Districts who will be chosen in a lottery and forced to be the real players of "The Hunger Games." This 74th annual competition, a fight to the death, was conceived by the government and serves as punishment for a past rebellion. It also serves as a reminder the government is in control.
  Throughout this moving story, we hear different characters repeating what becomes a familiar line stated annually by a game official: "May the odds be ever in your favour", as though luck is even an option in any government controlled decision about your life. Unlike Reality TV, the ultimate dirty little secret of any "equal" society totally controlled and ultimately corrupted by any one entity ends up eventually to resemble the familiar Darwinian philosophy: "Live and let live."
  

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Labels - Are We Done Yet?

Letter To The Editor
Elle Magazine 
300 West 57th Street
New York, NY  10019

Re: Randall Slavin's article: "She'll Take Manhattan"

Dear Madame,
   As a young woman living in New York during the Reagan 80's when Mayor Koch was mayor, I adored reading Randall Slavin's article about the amazing, rising up and shooting star of the "Big Apple", Christine Quinn.
   Ms. Quinn is accomplished and polished. She seems to be forthright, upright, not uptight, sharp as a nail and tough as a tack. She is also kind. Kind under pressure to hostile strangers who suddenly approach her on the streets of New York, because deep down, she knows these are New Yorkers. She seems to honestly love New York and all its citizens, just like the extraordinarily popular Mayor Koch.
   So, imagine my surprise when the author of the article, Randall Stavin, stated: "It took a man tweeting a picture of his penis to young lovelies from coast to coast to pave the way for the first possible woman mayor of New York, who just happens to be a lesbian." After reading this mess, I thought either I must still be in 4th grade, or it is still 1956.
   I disagree with Mr. Slavin on two points. First of all, eventually, the cream rises to the top on its own, female or male, along with, or without, the falling star, Mr. Anthony Weiner. Second of all, why did Mr. Slavin mention Ms. Quinn's sexual orientation?
   In 2012, why is the press still printing labels on people? Is it still for the sensation of the shock? Mr. Slavin states New Yorkers don't care what goes on in Ms. Quinn's bedroom, "New Yorkers just want their trash picked up and their streets plowed," so why does he keep continually, over and over again using the "L" label throughout his three page piece?
   By the by, distracting and even more annoying were Mr. Slavin's use of curse words. Beautifully educated columnists should have a broader and more creative command of the King's English.
   Bottom line, by labeling people for shock value, the cool factor, for rebellious reasons, attention, or for whatever reason, the press proliferates "isims." The first woman mayor, the second gay mayor, the third whatever, the forth whomever. When does it end? When are they done? Are they done yet?
   If Ms. Quinn becomes the next mayor of New York, she will stand as a success because of her own tenacity, accomplishments, patience, kindnesses, and because of her love for "The City" and its citizens. The latter quality counts the most because people can always smell sincerity, regardless of labels.      

Respectfully Submitted,

Katherine Barrett Baker
1451 Amber Lake Road
Manakin-Sabot, Virginia USA

Monday, March 19, 2012

American "Dollar Princesses", Britain's Cash Poor Aristocracy & The Famous Four Hundred

   In watching the hit TV series "Downton Abbey", I thought the character of the American Lady, Cora Crawley, might be loosely based on the famous teenager, Consuelo Vanderbilt. Everyone has heard the story of this bride married off in 1895 by her Mother to the Duke of Marlborough, thus, saving his estate Blenheim Palace where Winston Churchill was born. I felt sorry for Downton Abbey's "Cora" as I thought she might be the only American chatelaine in Britain.
   As it turns out, over 350 American heiresses were married off to British Aristocracy between the 1890's and WWI. Why? Simple reason. The British Aristocracy needed cash to keep their vast estates, and the daughters of the nouveau rich American Industrialists needed Title.
   As a result of these marriages, 25 Billion US dollars rolled into Britain's economy. Soon, As a result of this huge cash infusion, by the end of the 20th Century, 1/4 of The House of Lords had a transatlantic connection.
   Upon closing the marriage contract, these "Dollar Princesses" received their titles, immediately elevating their social status so they and their families could caper about with the established Mayflower and Main Line dynasties of New York and Philadelphia.
   With the new cash influx, the Landed Gentry of Britain could then keep their large estates with their thousands acres of land and grand houses intact. England was suffering not only from an agricultural depression but from a newly implemented tax called the "Death Duty," similar to our Estate Tax here in the US.
    Who were these American heiresses turned Ladies and Countesses? Well, we have all heard of Consuelo Vanderbilt (Railway heiress), but are y'all familiar with Winaretta Singer (sewing machine heiress), Mary Leiter, (Chicago department store heiress), Jennie Jerome (NY real estate developer heiress), Minnie Stevens and Nancy Astor (hotel heiresses). Even Princess Diana's great-grandmother was an American.
   This influx of transatlantic marriages became so popular, entire industries popped up to accommodate their weddings, wedding trousseaus, lifestyles and needs. One such industry was a quarterly publication called: "The Titled American." This publication became the most popular of many publications for American heiresses looking for husbands, titles and instant social status.
   Back during the turn of the last century with the American Industrial Age, there were 1000 Millionaires living in New York.  Mrs. Astor could only fit 400 people into her ballroom, thus, was born the infamous "Four Hundred." Bottom line, Mrs. Astor would not admit the newly rich Vanderbilt's to her ballroom until Consuelo received her title "Duchess of Marlborough."
   Nancy Langhorne Astor, from Danville, Virginia, was the most accomplished of the "Dollar Princesses." She became the first woman Member of Parliament to take up her seat in the House of Commons. The American "Grand Experiment" saved many of Britain's grand estates!          

Friday, March 9, 2012

Nice Television and Conversation Direction

    Is it just me, or are we all starved for nice television. Well spoken, well mannered, well dressed, beautifully educated people with decent families respectfully trying to get along with each other and striving to live their lives positively and happily.
   Enough of the foul mouthed, ill mannered, ill spoken, ill educated, mean, sloppy, selfish people treating each other horribly with utter and ultimate disrespect. As a Bruce Springsteen song once said: "57 channels and nothin' on." No kidding. Are we, as a country done yet with the grossness of "Reality TV?"
   Most clips of "Reality TV" I have seen (because I do not watch it), remind me of the Circus freaks I used to see in books from the turn of the last century. Yes, it is human nature to be drawn to the unusual, the sensational, the spectacular and fantastic. Eventually though, wouldn't we all rather spend our valuable free time happily escaping into a lovely world filled with some of the niceties in life?
    The British drama, "Downton Abbey," is set during the turn of the last century, at the height of the  Edwardian Age. It is a  huge hit across the pond with 12 million viewers and is becoming a success here in the USA as it took home a Golden Globe award this year. Downton Abbey has a few Facebook pages devoted to this show and folks adore the every day politeness, manners and general respect the characters show each other. Yes, life happens and human beings make mistakes, but the downs in Downton Abbey are a far cry from the foul, crying, unfair and nasty downs we all have to suffer through in watching Reality TV.       
   Speaking of Edwardian manners, did y'all know that during the first course of a meal, guests would talk in one direction (for example, to the right), then for the second course, guests would talk in the other direction (for example, to the left), and so on. For dessert, guests spoke to whomever they wished. The direction was set by the Hostess. This way, everyone at the table gets to speak and is spoken to, and no one is ignored. Civilized conversation. Fair and very nice.     

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Is It Advisable As A Guest To Wear Black To Weddings?

SJP On Her Wedding Day, 1997
Last month, I read an article in the February Elle Magazine (very expensive and exclusive fashion magazine), from their young etiquette columnist. He said guests may now wear black to weddings and it is now perfectly acceptable: "Black is totally appropriate, as long as it's done tastefully - keep it elegant and sleek (no Morticia Addams!)."
    Well, he is entitled to his opinion, but, he does live in New York City, the fashion capital of the world, and a city for young people. As I mentioned, he is much younger than me.
   Being 50 years old now, I am unfortunately at the age where my husband and I are starting to attend funerals. Black is required. No room for any other color as black is the American official mourning   attire color.
  Understandably, Bridesmaids' dresses are expensive, and black Bridesmaids dresses are popular to have so each attendant may feel like she can wear her dress again. Totally fine and acceptable.
   However, my thoughts regarding guests (and Brides) are quite different. Why on earth would a guest want to wear black to a wedding, then the next week turn around and have to wear black to a funeral.
   Having been a Registered Bridal Consultant for over 2 decades, I also think wearing black to a wedding is bad luck. I'm not really a superstitious person, but just don't like black for such a happy day.
   Even Sarah Jessica Parker an actress who plays the character "Carrie Bradshaw" on the Series "Sex And The City," was quoted as saying she regrets wearing a black wedding dress for her delightfully happy, beautiful, lush wedding and reception at The Plaza in New York City. An unfortunate regret one can never reverse.
   Anyway readers, freedom is choice and choice is freedom. Y'all make up your own minds; black attire or no black attire to weddings.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Civility costs little but Incivility Will Cost Us Our Country

NYT Reader Comment to January 26, 2012 article "With Audiences Encouraged to React, Primary Debates Seem More Made for TV 

  Like it or not, it is not 'Morning in 1984 America.' Like it or not, America has been making money 'on the float' since the early 1970's when we went off of the 'Gold Standard.'
   Culturally we live in a 'Jerry Springer' mentality, media and ratings driven, instant gratification, either/or, got-'cha, Red Carpet seeking, short-term solution, 'Kartrashian,' non-tolerant, uncivil, mean girl, populist society.
    All 24 hour news outlets push their own fortune telling, fear mongering agendas with loud background bells and 'whooshing' sounds, so we will raise our heads for their ratings.
   All the 'Talking Heads' interrupt their guests, and the loudest person in the room is perceived to be the smartest person in the room.
   NBC purposefully censured their audience last week to make the Republican debate as boring as possible. Inversely, producers should not dishonestly pump up and prime their audiences, but again, it is no longer 'Morning in America.'
   Populist perception and polls are instantly perceived to be everything, and yet, amount to a vapid nothing.
   America is the 1% of the world, with our massive earning potential and great wealth as compared to how 75% of the rest of the world lives on less than $2 per day.
   How many of us cook dinner for a needy neighbor once a week, tithe our Church, and give locally to local charities? Why are we so lazy that we think any federal entity will solve all of our 310M problems? Civility costs little to learn but incivility will cost us our country.