Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Austria & Leisl's Famous Sound of Music Glass Gazebo

 As a student abroad in 1981, getting off the train in Salzburg, Austria, college girl friends and I were approached by a nice lady offering her Bed & Breakfast to us as a lovely place to stay. Was it ever! Glad we were clean, groomed and dressed more like Liesl than like we were cleaning out our garage, so we felt like proper travelers, not like the stereotypical "Ugly American" traveler. 

We were also handed information by a gentleman from the "Austrian resistance." Remember, this was before the Berlin Wall fell. We could spend 1/2 hour in a family's apartment learning to speak Austro-Bavarian, the unofficial language of Austria. Afterwards, we would be treated to the movie: The Sound of Music, for $5 cash each. The family would stay in their modest kitchen for the entire 4 hours as not to disturb us. All this for $15 towards "the cause." August was also "Mozart Festival week, so we attended a concert at the beautiful Salzburg Opera House. Quite the experience!

At the B & B, our quilted trundle type twin beds were in an apartment loft above the barn, with red & white checkered curtains on the windows all around. We awoke to a breakfast of eggs, sweet tasting bread, butter & jam, ham & cheese and fresh cow's milk, listening to chickens in the barnyard clucking about.

We also visited the Sound of Music Trellis, the Pegasus Fountain, the Mirabell Palace Gardens, and the Glass Gazebo, which had unfortunately been moved across the road from the Loepoldskron Palace. The then owners were tired of tourists trespassing on their property, and as a result, Liesl's glass Gazebo had been neglected, was broken and in disrepair. Our hearts sank as we stepped over broken benches and glass! Since then, money has been raised and the beloved gazebo has been reconstructed and relocated in the Schloss Hellbrunn gardens in Southern Salzburg. 

Here are a few stats & travel tips for Austria:

  • There are numerous Sound of Music tours & they look like fun! In Salzburg, it's easy to get around. Pick one that suits your energy, time & enjoy! Mozart concerts are numerous as well!
  • Austria also has a "Cow Festival" every Summer, but don't kiss the cows or get too close!
  • "Old European Manners" apply in Austria although they are a modern and liberal country (see my August 12, 2020 post)! Use these manners always. 
  • Austria is a bit smaller than the State of Maine. Easy to get around on the trains and busses.
  • Vienna is the Capitol and their population is about 1.9 Million. Salzburg is about 155,000.
  •  Austria is a Federal Republic with a population of 9 Million. GDP is $53,558 USD.
  • The weather is cool at 30 Degrees F in Winter to 68 degrees F in Summer. Be sure to layer! 
  • The official language is German. English & other "Germanic" languages such as French & Italian are spoken. Don't be surprised if most Austrians speak 3-4 languages!
  • Currency is the Euro. As well, best to travel with a debit/credit card with NO foreign usage fees.
  • Dress is "Casual Chic." Conservative. I know it can be boring, but black or navy clothing can be dressed up or down, goes anywhere, and makes you look thinner! Blouses/shirts can be jewel toned for women and beige/grey/sage for men. Best to blend in when abroad! NO SHORTS in the evenings. Gentlemen must wear slacks. Women can wear dark, clean dress jeans, but some hotels or venues may not accept jeans of any type. The 'little black dress' for women works anywhere! Some venues may require a Jacket and/or tie, so check before you go out.
  • Travel quietly. DO NOT yell. DO NOT be loud or boisterous. Europe is not your college campus.
  • DO NOT walk around, stand, or take photographs with your hands in your pockets. Pants pockets are for giving or receiving change only.
  • DO NOT eat walking down the Street or chew gum in public. Considered rude!
  • Continental dining must be observed in Europe. Otherwise, according to legend, you may be thought of as hiding something, untrustworthy, dishonest. Keeping your wrists above the table dates back to King Louis XIV (seen Game of Thrones?), when he commanded all men at the table to show they had no daggers up their sleeves. DO clean your plate.
  • DO NOT put your hands in your lap. Wrists gently above the table please!  
  • Break your rolls up and eat them in small pieces. An old Christian tradition. If you do not have a Butter Plate, place your roll on your plate or table.  
  • Viennese men may kiss the hand of a lady "of a certain age."
  • Eye contact is important, and a firm hand shake.
  • Ask to use the "W.C." The 'water closet' is the restroom!
  • At any company or family gathering, stand when a woman enters the room.
  • Titles are important. Use titles and last names first until specifically invited to use first names. 
  • Shake hands with everyone upon greeting and departing. A lady extends her hand first.  
  • "Herr" = Mr., "Fran" = Mrs., "Fraulein" = Miss., + title + last name.
  • Use your 'Magic Words:" "Bitte" = please. "Bitteschon" = you're welcome. "Danka" = thank you. "Guten Morgen" = good morning. "Guten Tag" = good day. "Auf Wiedersehen" = goodbye. 
  • Appetizer = "Vorspeise." Main Course = "Hauptspeise." Dessert = "Nachspeise" (pudding).
  • Vegetables = "Gemuse." Meat = "Fleisch." Bread = "Brot", and Soup = 'Suppe." 
  • Greet everyone, even in public. "Hallo" = hello. No PDA!
  • Gift Giving to a host/hostess: DO give odd numbers of flowers, as even numbers are bad luck. Give: chocolates, nice wine, good brandy or whisky. If you give a leather wallet, put a penny in it. This will guarantee the recipient will never be poor.  
  • To a host/hostess: DO NOT give Red carnations (true love), perfume, or extravagant gifts, knives (bad luck) or Logo gifts. 
  • To summon a waiter: raise your hand with index finger extended.
  • VAT tax "service inklusive" of 10% - 15% is added to and listed on your restaurant bill. It is traditional to add 5-10% more in cash on the table, ending with a full Euro amount (round up). NEVER leave change or a penny on the table. It is considered an insult. 
  • When greeting your drinking buddies at the Pub, knock on the Oak table. This means the Devil cannot touch you because Oak is considered a holy tree.
  • Thespians don't say "break a leg", instead they spit on each others' left shoulders! 
  • Tip the Taxi driver 10%. Tip the Porter 2 Euros per bag. Tip the Maid 4 Euros per day. Save your cash in a jar all year long for tipping. You will receive much better service and your small generosity will be appreciated and remembered. 
  •  "Gulasch" = paprika beef with noodles. "Weinerschnitzel" = breaded, fried veal cutlet. "Fladle", or "Frittensuppe", is beef broth pancake soup. "Tafelspitz" = Boiled beef. "Melange" = coffee with hot milk. "Apfelstrudel" = apple strudel."Schlage" = whipped cream. "Milchrahmstrudel" = cream cheese strudel. 
  • TOAST: "Prost" Cheers! NEVER toast with water. It means you are "wishing death" on those you toast. Wine is served with most meals.     

Repeat after me: "Ein Bier Bitte" (One beer, please)

and remember to try the Sachertorte. It is delicious!